Calico Fabric

Both are plain-weave cotton fabrics. Calico is heavier, coarser, and unbleached with visible seed flecks. It has more body, which makes it good for toiling and structural testing. Muslin is lighter, more finely woven, and typically bleached. It drapes more softly and is better suited to testing lightweight, draped garments. In the UK the terms are sometimes used interchangeably, but calico is generally the sturdier of the two.

Calico is inexpensive and has enough body to give a reasonable sense of how a garment will hang and fit, without using expensive fabric. The plain weave structure makes it easy to mark up and adjust. Using calico to test a pattern before cutting into your final fabric saves both time and money. See our range of 100% cotton calicos in a variety of weights and widths CC11 Calico Light, CC10, CC37, CC57, CC16, CC17A Calico Medium, CC27 Calico Heavy.

Calico can be used for finished garments, particularly casual or rustic-style pieces. It can feel stiff initially but softens with washing and wear. It works well for aprons, workwear, bags, and simple garments. If you’re planning to wear it against the skin, pre-washing a few times before sewing is a good idea.

Calico has reasonable sustainability credentials as a natural, biodegradable cotton fabric. Being unbleached and undyed reduces its chemical processing footprint compared to finished fabrics. Conventional cotton farming can be water-intensive, so if sustainability is a priority, look for calico certified to GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard). See our range of Organic Cotton in Section Z.